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Korean Nobles
🕑 Added 2024-06-26 17:43:10 +0000 UTCAristocratic couple of Goryeo (medieval Korea), 12~13th centuries
Goryeo (고려) was a Korean state founded in 918, that unified and ruled the Korean Peninsula until the establishment of Joseon in 1392.
This drawing depicts an aristocratic couple in Goryeo. The man in the drawing is a hojang (호장), the highest-ranking local official. According to Xu Jing (徐兢, 1091~1153. An envoy from Song Dynasty China who visited Goryeo in 1123. He wrote ‘Goryeo dogyeong[고려도경]’ based on his travel.), they wore “a headdress of black silk, a robe of black silk, a belt with an ornament of black horn, and small shoes made of black leather.” This also matches the portrait of Yi Jang Gyeong (이장경, 1214~?), who served as hojang.
The woman's dress is based on the purple robe currently housed at the Onyang Folk Museum. This clothing was found inside the statue of Amitabha Buddha made in 1302. It was worn by the wife of Yu Hong Sin (유홍신), who made a contribution for the creation of this statue. She placed her dress inside the statue as an offering. This garment has a side slit, and the back of the dress is longer than the front. The sleeves are very long, reaching down to the ankles, and the overall width of the garment is very generous. The skirt is based on Xu Jing's account, which states that Goryeo ladies typically wear yellow skirts.
The numerous pouches and the olive-colored sash worn around the waist are also based on Xu Jing: “(Goryeo women) wear olive-green sash (...) and an incense pouch made of silk, which are considered very valuable if more of these they have.” For the pouch, I referenced various fabrics from the Goryeo period. The crystal rosary is based on those in the National Museum of Korea.
Sources
문경 봉생리탑 복장 꽃무늬 위금직물, 12세기
유홍신 처 이씨의 자색 포, 온양민속박물관 소장, 1302
관경서분변상도, 다이온지 소장, 1312
서산 문수사 금동아미타불 복장 남색원앙문직금능, 1346
“이문건가 족보(李文楗家 族譜)” 중 이장경 초상, 1547
서긍, “고려도경: 송나라 사신, 고려를 그리다”, 서해문집, 2005
글림자, “조선 이전 우리옷: 한복 이야기”, 혜지원, 2018
