howNOTtoHighline posts
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Big Wall Anchor Tricks That Can Save You Hours
Big Wall #9 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessAnchors can be the leak in your time boat. You can lose so much time if you don't have anchor skills dialed. If you can't build the anchor quickly, if hea...
Ice Screw Break Tests in Iceland
PATRONS: I've been stoked for this one a long time. Sat on this fully edited for MONTHS so it would be more seasonally relevant but it's finally getting cold out so here it is. This was a lot of planning just to be able to do strong pull tests without capstans, vehicles pulling, piston equip...
Aid Climbing Big Walls - How to Lead
Big Wall #8 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessLeading is a methodical and repetitive motion if done correctly. Get as high as you can on your aiders, place your gear, bounce test it, commit to it, get off you...
Watch this before climbing in Tonsai
Tonsai, Krabi, Thailand is a climbing mecca and has beautiful and unique climbing. The overhanging limestone cliffs remind me of an outdoor cave without mud. Here is some beta if you are planning to go there I hope makes your trip easier for planning. 1-Get the f*** out of Bangkok - nothing worth se...
15 Knots You Need to Big Wall
Big Wall Bible #7 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessIt's "knot" that hard to learn how to twist your rope in all the ways you need to go up a wall. This ties together a foundation for the next cha...
EARLY ACCESS: C4 vs Ultralights: Testing Climbing Cams AT BLACK DIAMOND'S LAB
We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house fire where they got smoke and water damage which is why they are all rusty. The ultralights are 25% lighter than the latest C4s and one weight-...
Aid Climbing - Hooking and Nutting
Big Wall Bible #6 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessHow do you place all that gear you are carrying? Do you need to have a trad climbing background where you already know how to place cams and nuts? It helps,...
How much force can a $390 climbing bolt remover pull?
I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot. It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf! This is why you have to score, or aggressively spin, a bolt before pulling so the wedge doesn't ...
My Big Wall Rack - Cams, Nuts & Hooks
Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessWhat gear do you need to lead while aid climbing? A whole lot! We'll show you our racks if you show us yours. WHAT do we carry and WHY and HOW. 👉 Thi...
Fun Update
I'm stoked so I thought I'd share it with my patrons. One door closed and a really cool one opened. I am going to Black Diamonds QA headquarters tomorrow at SLC and getting to interview the inventors of the Ultralight C4s. I have tested a few ULs and normal C4s in the drop tower and it's...
How to Sleep on a Cliff and Poop in a Bag
Big Wall Bible #4 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessExisting in a vertical world is an art and honestly one of the coolest forms of camping. But you don't know what you don't know if you haven't d...
Packing Haul Bags for Big Walling
Big Wall Bible #3 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessYou have 1 bag with 1 compartment, how are you going to pack it? Haul bags are not like other backpacks so it's worth spending a chapter and showing you...
EARLY ACCESS: Monkey fists don't work, or get stuck if they do
TO PATRONS: Every video I produce has a reason and value but some I know are going to be more popular of a topic, are intriguing what we caught on camera, and have a good storyline. This kind episode is what I call GOLD and I wish they were all this good. Jenny helps narrate it and that helps jump t...
12 Essentials You Need To Climb Big Walls
Big Wall Bible #2 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessI know you are excited to get on the rock but you have a LOT of prep ahead of you in order to live in a vertical world for several days. This is your 2nd NO...
Big Wall Bible - Planning For El Capitan
Big Wall Bible #1 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comPatron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-accessThe number one thing that can cause you to bail and fail on a big wall is poor planning, getting late starts from difficult Yosemite logistics, bad weather,...
EARLY ACCESS LINK
6 months of planning, 60 days of type 2 fun, 100+ hours of filming and 200-300 hours of editing and I now present to you The Big Wall Bible. It is just the beginning and you'll see I'm still working on the blogs. This link is a COPY of the Big Wall Bible but gives you access to ALL 14 VIDEOS...
NO CHARGE ON UPDATE VIDEOS: 6 Year Anniversary! A 9 month project is now released
I redesigned our entire website from scratch and coded a 3 layer filter to organize our 400 episodes which are (soon) all in written form. We have 3 courses live and our 4th course is coming out in 2 days. I've been doing this for 6 years now and it's amazing to see how far it has come but w...
FINALLY - New website is live
When I'm posting only 1x per week, you know I'm pretty busy behind the scenes. It was crazy to put the pressure of making the new website live at the same time of releasing 14 big wall episodes but I've been working on this for 9 months and it's super good enough to be live. In fact,...
Cave Anchors Made Out Of Dyneema???
EARLY ACCESSBobby and John broke some cave anchors. They tested the Climbing Technology's Soft Anchors and also the homemade ones by Andrzej Rudkowski. CT dyneema broke at 14kn and rethreaded with Max sk99 4mm broke at 16kn and in tension broke at 11kn. Soft Shackle homemade anchor broke the met...
Dyneema vs Chineema - How strong is "synthetic rope" (HMPE) on Ebay & Amazon?
EARLY ACCESS!Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that. What do they mean and how much do they affect strength. We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon because a lot of us wonder how good that stuff is. Strength isn't t...
Big Wall Series 99.9%
Wow, that was harder than any big wall I've climbed. 100+ hours of filming, 200+ hours of editing while getting the new website to launch in 10 days from now was a lot of work but wow, it turned out really good. 14 videos are a part of the official original big wall series that just is to get th...
Super 8 Knot - are the bunny ears actually redundant?
EARLY ACCESS: This is what I'm posting tomorrow. I'm tinkering with format for knot specific videos. Showing how to tie it, application, untie test, and failure tests. This one is a simple version. I have a more complex butterfly coming out soon. I really wanted to release a drop tower cam v...
Dyneema VS Generic HMPE Soft Shackles
PATRONS: Doing blogs for each video really helps share information that is difficult to articulate in a video I'm trying to keep fast paced and interesting even though it's real nerdy. I'm excited that the new website will allow me to do this for every video. It also allows me to update ...
Does PURCELL PRUSSIK save you If you fall on an ASCENDER???
PATRON BEHIND THE SCENES: I edit in batches what I filmed in batches so I'm excited to do a whole bunch of drop tower stuff. Matt is a local-to-the-lab fire fighter who came down and shared gear fear among some fire fighters. Falling on ascenders crosses over in a lot of sports so here you have ...
Tested Dyneema (UHMwPE) Tapers BUT the TEUFELBERGER Brummel PULLED OUT!
EARLY ACCESS - COMES OUT TOMORROW - I've been working on 3 dyneema break test videos and they all have some gold sprinkled in them all. Thank you for your support because this is how NOT to get sponsored. I hope Teufelberger doesn't get too mad but they probably ought to change their pdf ins...
Updates! 7-22-22
It's a known fact that anyone taking a photo of a spreadsheet to share with people for no other reason than they are excited... is a nerd. Before I nerd out on you, I want to thank you so much for either having had supported me or just signed on. I went from 260ish patrons to now 442 in under 2 ...
Does Petzl's Wire Lock locking carabiner hold up to other climbing carabiners?
EARLY ACCESS: I finally got a video done in advance! This is going out Wednesday. Just officially hired an editor and instagram manager and once that is done, I can start working on the Big Wall Course.We broke 12 locking carabiners all lined up from weakest to strongest. They did not break in that ...
Update!
Just finished filming 9 days to get 30 hours of footage to be cut down to about 12x 1 hour videos on How NOT 2 Big Wall. This is a screen shot of the intro where Ryan 1 is hazing Ryan 2 while he is "training" for a big wall. Very fun to film and sadly very realistic to what big walling is ac...
I Got Rescued! What is Search and Rescue?
PATRONS: Today (Wednesday) I'm all finished filming the big wall course with Jeremiah. 30 hours of footage that will be cut into 12x 1 hour episodes and take about 100ish hours of editing. The Big Wall Bible is going to be a place on our website that our audience can contribute their ideas and t...
How long can you safely leave a permanent slackline set up?
PATRONS: worked on this until the last minute so couldn't do early access but our big project right now is How NOT 2 Big Wall course and we are putting tons of thought into it before shooting to be even better than our last course. New website design is mocked up in photoshop and all coding is d...
