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Ice Screw Break Tests in Iceland
🕑 Added 2022-10-29 14:11:30 +0000 UTCPATRONS: I've been stoked for this one a long time. Sat on this fully edited for MONTHS so it would be more seasonally relevant but it's finally getting cold out so here it is. This was a lot of planning just to be able to do strong pull tests without capstans, vehicles pulling, piston equipment and we threw the dice on this project and it worked. This edit was also an experiment in taking a 22 minute really good video and taking 4 hours to cut another 2.5 minutes out to make it super tight and more fun to watch. Enjoy...
How strong are ice screws? Plenty strong enough, but the question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 9 tests in this video and found the aluminum hangers on the Petzl Laser Speed breaks at 14kN, long 21cm screws are stronger than a carabiner, and of course that screws in tension hold better than when placed in shear, like so many tests in the past have confirmed.
See our write up and spread sheet on our blog
https://www.hownot2.com/post/ice-screw-break-tests-in-iceland.
Comments
This will be my first ice climbing season and I’m so stoked! Super excited for this
Great tests and as someone just getting into winter climbing it's good to see it's the medium the protection is in that is most important. digging out a good placement with a shorter screw sounds like a good idea generally in this case and tie-offs are definitely important.
