howNOTtoHighline
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American Death Triangle is a Myth
🕑 Added 2021-06-30 13:30:01 +0000 UTCIf a span is 180 degrees it has infinite force on it. Even zipline and electric wires have sag in them. So 170 degrees is 5x the force as what is applied in the middle. I thought an American Death Triangle put magical amounts of forces on the bolts and anchor material since the top line is 180 degrees. Come to find out it is not that bad. If you want to read about the math, check out https://overtheedgerescue.com/rope-rescue/american-death-triangle/
OUR RESULTS At 60 degrees (equilateral triangle) and 40 degrees we had about 70% of force on the bolts than the master point. As wide as we could go created 150% of the master point's force. The top of the ADT was never more than 50% of the master point!!! Angles of the legs mattered a lot! See time stamps for each set of tests. Too much and too complicated to write everything down here. Please build your anchors properly with acute angles!
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00:00 The Myth 01:20 Setting up 04:18 1st Test 06:24 2nd Test 07:32 3rd Test 10:34 4th Test 11:55 Testing Rappels Wide 16:44 Testing Rappels Normal 19:09 Giant Sliding X 21:05 Conclusion 23:33 How to build a proper anchor
Comments
Yes, it is the best international measurement of force. Making more climbing videos now, I occasionally have to explain why we use it on the channel.
As an American, please stay in kN! It makes so much more sense and makes conferring with colleagues internationally so much smoother (I’m mostly in rescue and climbing, not high lining, so my view is both humble and myopic).
