howNOTtoHighline
patreon
I Hate Amazon's 12kN Carabiners
🕑 Added 2021-04-21 13:31:00 +0000 UTCThe 12kn carabiners being made today look and feel like climbing carabiners and can easily get mistaken as life supporting devices. Even the description videos and reviews on these products mistake them for climbing use. You need your aluminum stronger than you need it so it doesn't get fatigue and suddenly snap on you. The carabiners we broke were all higher than 12kn in this episode but that doesn't mean they are proof loaded and meet the standards for climbing today.
DO NOT BUY THESE - these links are just for you to reference the carabiners we tested in this episode. We literally threw away the extra ones we did not break or use so they don't accidentally get mixed into my gear
Titecongo https://amzn.to/3wHGFbw
Unijoy https://amzn.to/3fWLvM0
L-Rover https://amzn.to/3mzYrbR
BUY THESE - Here are some recommended carabiners that I own and like The Camp Nano 22 in this episode (a bit small for normal use) https://amzn.to/3fX3YZ1 Black Diamond wire gate oval (my main carabiner I use) https://amzn.to/3d0QF7U Camp Photon carabiners (I own 40+ of these) https://amzn.to/3wKiyZO Camp Photon locking carabiner https://amzn.to/3fZhv2e
00:00 Salty Intro 00:35 Titecougo Description 03:14 Unijoy Description 05:46 L-Rover Description 08:37 A Great Description 10:41 21kn Carabiners 11:13 12kn Carabiner Break Tests 13:45 12kn Summary 15:30 Climbing Carabiners Tested 16:25 Summary 17:48 Ending
Tested Amazon off brand Climbing specific carabiners: https://youtu.be/BQfKTx5T2WM
Check out our shop for TSHIRTS and other discounted gear https://www.slackline.com/shop
Donate at https://www.slackline.com/donate
Everything else is also at https://www.SLACKLINE.com/
Comments
Very interesting. Do you think these carabiners only are missing the heat treatment then? I've also seen corrosion on aluminum carabiners in caves which is very interesting.
Yep, either the 7075 or another "7000-series" (or 7XXX) aluminium alloy. It is the same Alloy family used to make parts in airplanes and even some rockets! This is from the DMM Website (about anodizing): "This is largely because the alloy used to make most climbing carabiners - 7000 series aluminum alloy - is quite susceptible to galvanic and exfoliation corrosion: this alloy series has zinc as the primary alloying element together with magnesium. The further addition of copper to the aluminum-zinc-magnesium system together with small, but very important amounts of chromium and manganese gives high strength aluminum alloys that, although initially developed in 1943, are still the benchmark for use in climbing carabiners." [https://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/August-2011/Anodising] Fun extra fact: This kind of Aluminum (7xxx, but also the 6xxx and 2xxx) can be molded in the factory in a pretty "soft" state from a straight rod into the complex cross-section carabiners we use. Then, once in it's final shape, it is has this heat treatment done to it, which massively increases it's strength (while decreasing the ductility- capacity for plastic deformation. But this is done in a controlled way to still have some bending and deformation before snapping. Like you've seen many many times already ;))
That is all very interesting... so is all climbing gear made of aluminum made with 7075?
