howNOTtoHighline
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These were RECALLED!
🕑 Added 2023-02-08 14:00:03 +0000 UTCEver get to an old hanger while climbing, clipped it, and wonder how strong it is? Bobby got his hands on recalled hangers, death hangers, niche hangers, discontinued hangers and we broke them all. A total of 27 tests. Some were old hangers that have never that had been installed and others that have been on the wall for 44 years. These include SMC Death hangers and recalled Leeper Hangers because they were so susceptible to SCC (stress crack corrosion) and could break under body weight. We have learned as a community that stainless steel hangers, made of thicker stock, are way better.
Bolting Bible is at https://www.hownot2.com/post/boltingbible
See the data at the blog https://www.hownot2.com/post/old-hangers
We tested other old hangers here https://youtu.be/DF0kZJcAGr8
Comments
Amazing timing. Some buddies and I are looking at a fairly remote area that was developed 30-40 years ago and is covered in 1/4" buttonheads and Leepers (and some SMC death hangers for good measure). These break tests make me optimistic, but the old "bomber" 1/4"ers do not. How bad can those get? My armchair estimate is that 9/10 are probably fine, and the other ones might kill us. Thoughts on whether this should be a climbing mission or a rebolting one? Thanks! Edit: Never mind. I just found a report about a bolt failing in the general area—twenty years ago. I don't imagine they're better now.
