James Kenji Lopez-Alt
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Twelve Rules for Better Burgers
🕑 Added 2025-07-03 17:06:53 +0000 UTCBy J. Kenji López-Alt
Grilling season is here, and whether you're smashing them on a flattop, searing over blazing coals, or carefully tending a gas grill, the fundamentals of great burger-making don’t change much. I’ve written about burgers a lot over the years—how to grind the meat, how to blend beef cuts, when to season it, why you should never let a crusty spatula tyrant tell you how often to flip.
This is the updated, expanded version of my original 10 burger commandments. I’ve added two new tips, fine-tuned the rest, and included some practical advice that applies no matter how you're cooking. These aren’t about style preferences or secret sauces—just twelve essential principles that’ll make your next burger better, full stop.
Let’s grind on.
1. Use Freshly Ground Beef
Pre-ground beef often means compressed beef. The meat is overworked and dense, which starts your burgers off on the wrong foot. Moreover, pre-ground beef is a mystery box: who knows what cuts are in there, how many cows contributed, or when it was even ground? More cuts ground into the mix from more animals multiplies the odds of a nasty bug making it into the mix and increases your risk of foodborne illness.
Use a meat grinder if you’ve got one (even the KitchenAid attachment works), or cut the beef into 1-inch chunks, spread them on a sheet tray, freeze for 15 minutes, and pulse them in a food processor about a half pound at a time o grind. Aim for at least 20% fat—chuck works great on its own, but a 1:1:2 blend of short rib, brisket, and sirloin is also excellent. Grinding your own lets you control flavor, fat, and texture. Plus, you get to say, “I grind my own beef.” That never gets old.
It's perfectly possible to make great burgers with any kind of ground beef, but for the best, you want freshly ground beef to ensure optimal juiciness and tenderness.
2. Keep Everything Really Cold
Heat is the enemy until the burgers hit the grill. Warm fat smears, sticks, and renders prematurely, leaving you with greasy hands and dry burgers. If you're grinding meat, chill your grinder parts and beef. If you're just forming patties, cold hands and cold meat still matter.
Keep your meat and formed patties cold until ready to cook.
3. Don't Futz With Your Meat
Ground beef is sensitive stuff. Every squeeze, stir, or knead develops myosin—the same sticky protein that makes sausage springy. That’s great for kielbasa, terrible for burgers.
The less you handle the beef, the more tender the results. I like to form patties as loosely as possible, even pressing them into shape directly on a parchment-lined sheet tray. Griddled burgers can handle maxmim looseness, while grilled burgers will need a little bit of working to ensure they don't fall apart.
Just don’t pack them like snowballs.
4. Do Not Salt Beef Until Patties Are Formed
Just as overworking can create tough beef, so can salting beef at any stage before the patties are formed. Salting raw ground meat starts a reaction that draws out moisture and dissolves proteins, tightening the texture and turning your burgers springy. That’s how you make sausage, not burgers.
Form the patties first, then salt, pepper, and MSG the surface (I use an 8:1 ratio of salt to MSG). This keeps the inside loose and juicy.
5. Keep Them Consistent
Uneven patties mean uneven doneness. Use a digital scale to portion out uniform burger balls. Whether you’re making 3-ounce griddled smashburgers or 6-ounce thick pub burgers, matching sizes ensures everything cooks at the same rate.
Consistency isn’t just for perfectionists. It’s for anyone who wants their burgers ready at the same time.
6. Form Matters
Shape affects cook quality. As a thicker burger cooks, the outside edges cook faster than the center which causes them to shrink and put pressure on the middle of the patty, like cinching a belt. As a result, the center tends to bulge out. To counteract this, form thicker burgers with a dimple in the center. You can make it with your fingers. Aim for something that resembles a red blood cell which will wind up flat when it cooks.
For thin patties, use parchment and a flat surface (the bottom of a skillet or a sheet tray works great) to press them evenly.
For any style of burger, make the patty a little larger than the bun to account for shirnking.
7. Season Liberally
Salt and pepper are not optional. Without seasoning, the best beef in the world will not deliver its flavor to your tongue. Any salt works but I like kosher salt for even coverage and freshly ground black pepper for flavor.
Sprinkle from about eight inches above to distribute evenly. Don’t let anyone shame you into under-seasoning. If you want an extra hit of flavor, you can also use some MSG. Aim for a ratio of 8:1, salt to MSG.
8. Use a Two-Zone Fire
Grilling? Whether on a charcoal or gas grill, set up a hot side and a cooler side. The hot side gives you browning and sear; the cooler side lets you finish cooking without flare-ups or burning. If fat drips and the flames roar, just move the burgers over.
It’s not about high heat or low heat—it’s about control. Two zones give you that.
9. Get Good Browning
The Maillard reaction is your friend. For thick burgers, sear on both sides over high heat, then move to the cooler side to finish. For thin patties, go for hard sear on one side only and cook through 90% of the way without flipping to maximize browning. Flip to hit the second side just for a moment to ensure that the patty stays juicy.
Good browning means big flavor. That crust? That’s where it lives.
10. Use a Thermometer
Guessing doneness by feel is a party trick—not a reliable method. A quick-read thermometer takes the guesswork out of cooking thicker patties. Stick it into the center from the side.
Here’s a rough guide:
Rare: 120°F (49°C)
Medium-rare: 130°F (54°C)
Medium: 140°F (60°C)
Medium-well: 150°F (66°C)
Well-done: 160°F (71°C)
No shame in your target temp. Just hit it on purpose.
11. Choose Your Bun Wisely
A bun isn’t just a vehicle. It’s an essential part of every bite. For thin burgers, a soft potato roll or supermarket squishy bun is perfect. For thick ones, go sturdier—something that won’t fall apart before your second bite.
Avoid overly chewy crusts or dense crumb that dominates the burger. Toast it, sure, but make sure the bun is there to complement, not compete.
12. Don't Let Anyone Tell You What to Put on It
You like mayo and kimchi? Go for it. Cheddar and grilled onions? Do it. Peanut butter and pickled jalapeños? I’m not here to judge (much).
Your toppings are your business. There’s no correct answer, only your favorite. I like American cheese, pickles, and raw onion. I prefer my salad on the bottom of the burgers while my partner Tessa stacks hers on top. As with most things, rule of the day is personal preference and consent.
Final Thoughts
Burgers are simple food, but like anything simple, the details matter. If you follow these twelve tips—grind fresh, stay cold, don’t overwork, season smart, and grill with purpose—you’ll make better burgers, every time.
So go forth. Fire up the grill. Make something great. And don’t forget the napkins.
Burger Recipes:
