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[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)

🕑 Added 2017-09-02 10:13:42 +0000 UTC
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)
[STATUS] - December 2017 (Update Dec 30th, 6:30pm AEST)

Comments

Alex

nice spinner.

Dirk van Swinderen

50/5000 You too Merry Christmas and just relax.

Clickspring

Hey David, yes that's my slightly confusing naming convention! I've named the plans as per the video that they are associated with, and the plans commenced at episode 3 - There were no plans associated with parts 1 & 2, although there was a calculator spreadsheet with part 2 - If you click on this link, it will show you the whole series with the plans files associated with each episode directly beneath each video: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/clickspring/posts?tag=Patron%20Series%202%20-%20BSC">https://www.patreon.com/clickspring/posts?tag=Patron%20Series%202%20-%20BSC</a> - merry Christmas to you too mate :)

David Paterson

Nice Chris, I was trying to sort through the attachments for the sundial, and can only see plans back to part 3. Were there parts 1&2? Have a great Christmas.

Clickspring

Hey Charles, its still in peer review, I would expect to hear something back by the end of the year :)

Charles Dodge

Any updates on the Technical Paper?

Clickspring

Terrific to hear that mate :)

Sondre Ninive Andersen

Really great with such frequent updates, Chris! I like the feeling of getting a behind the scenes look, and building up to the next main video :)

Clickspring

Hey Zach, unfortunately its a capture from the video so that's the only resolution I have. Although you've got me thinking that maybe it might be a good idea to start taking a few high res stills as I record each episode...

fish

Would it be possible to get a bigger resolution of that last image (snapshot 30)? That's an incredible shot.

Clickspring

Thanks David, so pleased you're reading these updates :)

David Paterson

Chris, your still photography is brilliant for these, I particularly like the attention paid to graining the brass, and also how the aesthetics of the square pillars are starting to make an impact.

Clickspring

Ha ha! Yes its an unfortunate name... Its a support bracket much like you see in the pic above, otherwise simply called a "cock". They are used throughout horology to support the 'other end' of an assembly or part that would otherwise have to exist as a cantilever - a good example is the supporting bracket that supports the 'upper' end of a balance wheel staff on a marine chronometer: <a href="https://www.google.com.au/search?dcr=0&biw=1920&bih=989&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=-tYIWp-CH46F0QThxIb4BQ&q=marine+chronometer+balance&oq=marine+chronometer+balance&gs_l=psy-ab.3...2955.3945.0.4105.8.6.0.0.0.0.371.371.3-1.1.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..7.0.0....0.Z5Tye4NdyOA#imgrc=gYjRz8F0KV25bM:" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.google.com.au/search?dcr=0&biw=1920&bih=989&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=-tYIWp-CH46F0QThxIb4BQ&q=marine+chronometer+balance&oq=marine+chronometer+balance&gs_l=psy-ab.3...2955.3945.0.4105.8.6.0.0.0.0.371.371.3-1.1.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..7.0.0....0.Z5Tye4NdyOA#imgrc=gYjRz8F0KV25bM: </a>

Damien Miller

What is a finger cock? Attempting to search for it online didn't return many results relating to horology...

Clickspring

Its so interesting Charles - I'll go into it in a bit more detail in the video, but its becoming clear to me that the Maker was shooting for maximum miniaturization with this edition of the device - Clearances have been deliberately reduced below what they could otherwise easily have been (eg B to L assembly clearance is approx 0.8mm as per scans), and obvious opportunities to do as you suggest (ie use pins for fastening, wedges etc) have been consciously bypassed for the more slender option of interference fits. This was right at the edge of what was reasonable to achieve with the existing materials and tech of the day - Interestingly, pushing the engineering limits did have consequences that required attention - more detail in the video :)

Charles Newstead

Great stuff. That really is very tight on the N3 pinion. I don't have the design in my head, and I'm not sure how much is known from the archaelogical evidence, but I wonder if there is space on the arbor to make the pinion a simple sliding fit, and retain it with a wedge-fit washer - only any use if there is room on the arbor. The washer could have an od about the same as the pinion, so giving a lot more material to resist the wedging. At least this way the maker would not risk splitting a pinion. Not that I know what I am talking about, but 0.6mm is very little for a hammer fit.

Clickspring

Hey Karl, Pure copper tends to be quite soft and ductile compared to brass, and is quite 'gummy' to machine. Its softness and flexibility without cracking makes it suitable for jobs that require malleability and flex eg cabling, cooking utensils, plumbing etc. Leaded brass alloy (Cu, Zn and Pb) is a little harder, much less flexible (will crack easily when bent) and machines well. That slight increase in hardness and machinability over copper makes it very suitable for making hard & relatively inflexible parts in a mechanism. Both pure copper and brass alloy will corrode depending on the environment, but the mechanical properties of hardness and tensile strength tend to govern how and where they are each used - Cheers mate :)

Karl Vella

Hi chris, hope that you are much better now.... what is the difference between working with brass or copper... copper is much stronger than brass?? Mine concern is that copper makes that corrosion much faster than brass... i am telling you this because I am in possesion of a lot of copper and with the furnace i can make moulds and make the stock by my self since its very expensive to buy even here.. thanks karl

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Duncan Luddite

Oh, and I like the bowl casting very much; looks quite crisp. Also good to hear you're back to health. Flu's not fun. Cheers

Duncan Luddite

Fair enough Chris, that *would* hurt.

Clickspring

Possibly Duncan, but its super critical that there be no contamination of grits when polishing - one single scratch from a lower grit, and you've blown an hours work. So I would choose to play it safe with clean source material. - cheers mate :)

Duncan Luddite

G'day Chris, I'm guessing that the silicon carbide and the Arkansas dust will have different densities. Would stirring them up in water and letting them settle out give you layers (thinking the Arkansas dust will probably be on top, though happy to be proven wrong), and, if the stone dust is on top, you could skim off the best for polishing purposes? Just a thought :)

Clickspring

Ha ha! Not yet, but I have wondered about that...

Jason Rock

When you called it a cement chuck instead of a super glue chuck, I wondered if you'd been contacted by the trademark police. 😀

Clickspring

You're very welcome mate :)

Jeff Swayze

Chris, thanks for the bonus video on dressing stones. Very helpful!

Dilapidus

If there was any justice in this world they'd lay fiber optic cable right to your door.

Clickspring

Yes you're correct - the upload failed half way through.. aargh! We have third rate internet in my part of the world, uploading a 20 minute video takes the better part of a day. Its currently at 67% in the second attempt, so fingers crossed!

Dilapidus

I'm thinking it didn't get through!

Clickspring

Cheers Alex! The latest AM Ep is uploading now, should be available in approx 6 hours :)

Alex Banks

Definitely waiting with baited breath. I love how you release a video when it's ready, it's how it should be, makes your whole channel so rewatchable and informative. Can't wait to add a lathe to my shop this month, you've been a real inspiration, thanks Chris!

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Brian

Yes! I love long episodes! The production quality of your videos is as beautiful as the projects you're working on. A 20+ minute video would be a special treat.

Clickspring

Thanks Dean :)

Dean Thompson

For any of your readers who may be wondering where they can get Soda Ash, it can be commonly found on the detergent isle of the grocery under the name 'Washing Soda'. Here in the states Arm & Hammer is the most common brand. This is usually much less expensive than other sources.

Clickspring

Terrific to have you watching mate :)

Shura0107

I'm rewatching your Spare Parts #9 video for the rectangular bluing tray, and you mention the cement chuck in it. It's a great bit to go with this post and image. Whilst I don't do any milling/machining/lathe work, I really like your videos.

Clickspring

Its truly my pleasure mate :)

Jeff, Practical Renaissance

That makes sense! Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has sent a part flying ;) I sincerely appreciate that you always take time to answer questions, I know you must get a tremendous amount of them!

Clickspring

Hey Jeff - they're so useful aren't they, I'd be lost without this method. Re idiosyncrasies - Its pretty much the same as the lathe in that the cuts need to be reasonably modest, although not excessively so. But it is a little subjective - the metal type, the amount of bonded surface area, the cantilever arm for the cut, DOC, feed etc all play a role and will differ from part to part. When I started using these on the mill, I generally just eyeballed it and waited to see what happened - as soon as the first part flew off and exited stage left, I thought "oh ok, there's the limit!" and sort of factored that into my cut plans going forward. I still never really know for sure whether I've got the bond right, but 9/10 its fine and does the job. It constantly amazes me just how hard the little sucker is stuck on there though, especially once I go to get it off!

Clickspring

Yes I believe so Pete - It would appear that the glue doesn't need a whole lot of moisture to cure

Jeff, Practical Renaissance

I've really enjoyed using super glue arbors on the lathe for a variety of projects, from brass to contours in hardened stainless steel, so cheers to you for sharing that so many years ago! :) I'm still more of a lathe guy than a mill guy, have you found any idiosyncrasies with making milling cuts using an SG arbor? any types of operations that are just going to be way too demanding, or do you just need to back down cutting pressure across the board? Thanks as always, Chris, I'm excited for more videos! :D

Peter W. Meek

Interesting. What (now) puzzles me is how air (and the needed moisture) gets into the annular ring grooves on the lathe SG fixtures. I would (now) think that radial grooves would be needed. Is there enough moisture in the air that is trapped when the part is placed?


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