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Constructing A Byzantine Sundial-Calendar - Part 7 (Making The Gnomon & Support Rings)

🕑 Added 2019-05-02 01:06:12 +0000 UTC

Comments

Clickspring

Yet to be made :)

Conor Keane

Where's the last video? Love your work Chris!!!

Clickspring

Terrific to hear that mate!

Thomas Moore

Keep up the good work, Chris! My old class is still using your prints. I'm actually going to be a tool and die maker erdie July, all because you've inspired me! Love your material! Never give up!inspired

Clickspring

There's no particular benefit over the nearest metric or fine imperial threads, and you can generally move to the nearest equivalent without much issue. But like you, when I was setting up the shop for clockmaking I purchased a tap and die set that covers the whole BA range so its what I tend to use now rather than buy more taps/dies. This book: (Amazon affiliate link: https://amzn.to/2Mf1MPn ) is brilliant. There is a set of conversion charts at the back for all thread standards, that I refer to at least once a day. Whatever set you go for, you will be able to convert a given project to your tap and die set with ease - Cheers :)

Philip Bouchon

I notice you use BA screws, the clock i'm planning for uses them and i was planning to buy a tap die set. Is there a reason you choose to use them here?

Joshua

Didn't see that! Thanks.

Clickspring

Hi Joshua, yes there are some buffering issues occasionally with Vimeo - try the direct video link for YT that is below the post text - Cheers :)

Joshua

For some reason since you've switched to Vimeo all your videos skip and stutter when I use Chromecast to send them to my tv. Never happened before 😣

Clickspring

Thank you!

Spacellama

Awesome work. You explain technical things so well they ALMOST don’t look extremely delicate and complex.

Clickspring

Hopefully soon - the process is excruciatingly slow, and entirely out of my control. Can't wait to share the detail :)

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Clayton Firth

When will you be able to spill the beans on your secret project?

Clayton Firth

Awe inspiring work Chris. Can’t wait to see it assembled.

Ben Manthey

Thanks, I figured that was the answer but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Sean Kirby

Very nice, Chris. Be good to finally see it in action in the next video. :-) One suggestion: tinning each end of the split ring before threading the smaller ring onto it might help further reduce heat colouring of the smaller ring by making the final soldering together of the ends of the split ring easier and faster. Cheers.

Sean Kirby

Yeah, that was particularly stunning camera work, even by Chris's usual high standards. :-)

Clickspring

Terrific to hear that mate :)

Clickspring

Hi Ben, glad you enjoyed it, no on the SW files, I prefer to keep them controlled - Cheers :)

Jeffro

You have given me motivation to at least try the hand tool before resorting to a power tool for almost ANY job!

Jeffro

Beautiful work as always

Ben Manthey

Fantastic as always. Any chance of getting the Solidworks files? Thanks!

Michael Fisher

Thanks for the answer! I really admire what you do. Taking the time not only to make these things and share them but also to answer questions about it is really inspirational.

Clickspring

Hi Leo, water (generally as brine) gives a faster quench than oil, and so brings with it the slightly elevated risk of cracking, particularly for larger parts. Although for the steel used here (EN8) with a small screw, either quench medium would be ok. Definitely worth an OST, I will add it to the list - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Hi Michael, I generally use Tix solder and flux (amazon links below) and I get the clock pins from Meadows and Passmore: <a href="http://m-p.co.uk" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://m-p.co.uk</a> - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Thank you John!

Leo G.

Is there a reason for quenching in oil instead of water? If so, the differences in various techniques might make for an interesting Old School Tips video... Also, is there a particular reason you decided not to blue the gnomon pin? Just wondering if it was a purely aesthetic choice or if there was some technical reason like wear on the part or something?

Michael Fisher

Chris, I was just wondering what type/brand of solder and flux do you use? Also where do you get your tapered pins?

OldSaltyPossum

Amazing work Chris!

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Ha ha! Always a bit nerve wracking towards the end of a build! Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Cheers Max!

Clickspring

Prototype in progress :)

Boguslaw Smalec

Another great journey comes to an end! Can't wait for the next project :)

Max Jonsson

Wow. Those 18 minutes went by fast. Thank you, Chris!

Strothy2

ahh perfect timing, just arrived from to watch more work-related videos :D I'm really excited to see this getting to completion!

Graeme Brumfitt

Gday Chris, I got nervous when you started to bend the arm why I don't know coz I knew you would pull it off TFS G :)

Joris van 't Land

wonderfully amazing, as always. Love it! thank you for sharing!

Tom Wazny

Excellent as always! Thanks for sharing

Clickspring

Yes certainly Markos, I will show how it is used in the next video - Cheers :)

Markos Skoulatos

Excellent Chris! I really like the close ups! Is there any chance you will show how to operate it, in particular reading the time with the sun?

Clickspring

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Y146v8HxE&list=PLZioPDnFPNsETq9h35dgQq80Ryx-beOli" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Y146v8HxE&list=PLZioPDnFPNsETq9h35dgQq80Ryx-beOli</a> - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Greg Nixon

I'd like to view your clockmaking series again. How do I do that?

Greg Nixon

Brilliant video again. Awe inspiring machine work.

Clickspring

Thank you mate! I found a nice threaded filter that gives me 2x on the camcorder, thrilled with how close it gets into some of the work shots :)

Brian Ullmark

Simply STUNNING camera work on this one Chris! The close-up views are superb! This project could continue for years and I'd continue to watch it!

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Leonard Solomon

Chris, thank you for making me speechless with wonder, once again.

Clickspring

Cheers Ralph :)

Clickspring

Yes - the next video will cover the start to finish of a new (to me) process, as well as a few things about the mechanism design that I modified from the prototype - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Two things that really help me are 1./ Use a light to illuminate the work from above, and then lightly cross grain the surface to catch the light. When working, watch what happens to that cross grain with each stroke, it will tell you right away if you're dropping the cut left or right. 2./ Align the work with the natural lines of the shop (walls, bench, floor etc) Its surprising how much the peripheral cues subliminally affect what you do with your hands - There is a bit more detail on this here: <a href="https://youtu.be/h4KaiG7CpSQ" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/h4KaiG7CpSQ</a> - Cheers :)

Ralph McCoy

Chris I see you use roll or round solder, have you ever used ribbon solder ? It is very thin and can be cut so you can put it in the joint and well save you clean up This has been quite a journey well done

Clickspring

I generally use a leaded free machining brass, and yes it will shoot off as a fine powder at certain speeds and depth of cut. One thing I do to avoid this is go for max depth cuts wherever possible, with a relatively slow rpm. Brass will cut well at just about any speed, but slow with a deep cut gives nice big chips that fall away that are much easier to manage - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Yes its a chunk of pumice

Clickspring

Thank you Stefan!

SkaveRat

With the series coming to an end: Are there any plans on making a "Mistakes made and how I fixed them" video?

Ralph McCoy

Chris, Practice Practice

Ralph McCoy

Chris, when filing parts how do you keep from filing on an angle ??

Damien Miller

What alloy of brass do you use? You seem to get nice flaky chips from it, whereas the brass I have (mostly offcuts, maybe 385?) flies apart in an unholy powder that gets into everything...