nightshiftmodeller
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Tools + more chips
🕑 Added 2020-06-16 23:28:20 +0000 UTCHey friends, back at the workbench again!
Today I added some chips on the concrete armor, and besides adding them on the edges and where crew would walk around, I also picked most of the protrusions on the surface to bring out the texture a bit.
Painting the tools was a ton of fun as always, and I again used the tried and tested techniques and paints as usual, so old wood + iraqui sand + dark brown oil paint for the wooden handles, and dark grey + light grey + both dark and light rust washes on the metal parts.
Now there's been some discussion about allied tank tools being actually painted in the same color as the tank, and this was supposedly done right in the factory where the tools were made, however - that would not be as eye catching, but also, as I was looking for any evidence to that claim, I only found a photo of a preserved Sexton SPG, which yeah, was Canadian, but it's the closest thing I could find to an actual, not restored WW2 relic.
I'm not really sure about the original claim, and I'm obviously biased because tools add a nice touch of color to any model, but on the other hand, a worn olive drab paintjob on them might look somewhat interesting, especially in 1/35th scale...
Anyway, tomorrow I'll focus on the remaining details like periscopes, MG, exhausts, and of course welds! I need to paint some chips over those as well! And then I'll start painting the stowage... damn that scares me π
Comments
Night Shift
Tough call indeed. Another common thing I've seen are wood handles left in their natural color and metal parts painted black... some people say it's a mistake done while restoring those parts, but again it's just opinions for me until I see a clear historical photo evidence, or hear it from Mr. Steven Zaloga himself, because he's a true expert on anything US WW2 related.
Night Shift
Yes indeed, actually both options are correct. The lighter tone gives us infinite options to darken it if necessary, which I partially did in some spots with the brown and black brown oil paints, also mud tones will add more dark spots, but also OD used to fade a lot. This friend of mine, who's almost obsessed with anything olive drab related, has shown me lots of b&w and color photos of really faded examples, some of which look almost like German dark yellow. Overall, I find it always easier and also more pleasing to work with a very light variation of any color.
Harold M. Adams
π£The EZ8 is looking very impressive!! Love the weathering so far! ππ The color of onboard tools or OVM on WW2 vehicles is very debatable. Thinking from a former soldiers point of view (Cold War/Gulf War 1) and through research on my own, from various archives and books, the painting of tools would have varied greatly. I'm sure if they were painting their vehicles in the field, and in a hurry, away from a depot, it was done quickly either by hand or spray with whatever close enough color, that was available under the circumstances. The tools and tow cables quite possibly would have been left on the vehicle during painting. On occasion you'll see pictures of both Allied and Axis vehicles with white wash for winter campaigning, just sloppily applied all over the place and it looks horrendous. Its all over the tools and such. Personally I prefer not to do that .π€π. I like how yours came out. Either OD or natural colors. Its a tough call, because we as model builders like authenticity, but at the same time do take some artistic license with the subject matter, to make presentable. I've seriously learned alot from your channel about painting, detailing, and weathering. My eyes (and walletπ) have been opened to all the different products and their proper applications. For my current project, AFV Club Tiger 1E π Late Model in 1/35th scale I'm following your build videos, and tips.
John E
Can you talk about the lightness of the olive drab. I certainly understand using a lighter shade than the actual color of a full size tank lest the whole thing become a black hole that swallows all detail and has no contrast.. This model seems exceptionally light in color as compared to "real" olive drab. Is this meant to represent a really faded example? Is it to allow for even more darkening to come as you continue to weather the model?
