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Marvellous Lady
🕑 Added 2023-08-04 16:17:31 +0000 UTCEminent lady of the court, Constantinopolis, Roman (Byzantine) Empire, 11th century
The Roman Empire survived in the East for more than a thousand years beyond the fall of the western provinces. (Eastern) Roman Empire's fashion culture underwent a radical transformation over several centuries. They absorbed and reinterpreted influences from all over the world, including Ancient Roman, Persian, Arab, Turkic, and even Western European.
This outfit is mostly based upon pictorial sources of the 11th~12th century. The lady is wearing a delmatikion (δελματίκιον), esôforion (ἐσωφόριον), and propolôma (προπόλωμα).
Delmatikion is originated from the dalmatica/delmatikia of the earlier ancient Roman Empire. It was loose woolen over-tunic with wide sleeves worn by all sexes. From the 4th century onwards, male delmatikia changed its name to kolovion. Women's delmatikia, in contrast, continued with the name and began to develop wider sleeves. By the 10th~11th century, these flaring sleeves became so wide that it fell to the ankle level. The delmatikia of this lady is primarily based on the Vatican Psalter. The V-neck with wide, ornament lapels is based upon a Persian style. Esôforion is a light under-tunic or chemise with a standing collar. This distinct collar band was introduced around late 10th century. A wide, decorated textile belt, called zonarion, was a common feature of women’s dress throughout this period.
The propoloma hat is described in several 10th century literary sources, but became common to all woman of court status during the 11th~12th centuries. This hat is shaped like a trapezoid, and made with wool and silk. This lady's extravagant propoloma indicates that she is a member of the extended royal family, because it's in purple rather than common white.
The golden earrings are based on the 10~11th century Byzantine earring at the British Museum.
The man on the left is a courtier in an everyday dress. Turban (fakeolion) over a padded cap was common throughout the Empire. He is wearing a makhlamion, which is a tunic with a long front opening. It's fastened with multiple pearl buttons with a loops of gold cord. He is holding a red ceremonial sword.
The hem of the tunic is in a purple silk. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian prohibited the sale of fabric in 'any color resembling the imperial purple'. Therefore, purple in all forms was reserved for court use. However, in the 10th century, Emperor Leo VI legalised the sale of offcuts of purple dyed silk for use as trimmings. Purple as a color still had an imperial symbolism, but its regulation has become much more lax.
Over the tunic, he is wearing a striped avdion. It is a sleeveless, unshaped mantle open down the front without fastenings, commonly made of light linen or cotton. It's derived from the Arabic garment abeyah.
The man on the right is also donned in a purple garment. He is a strator (junior courtier) in a non-regalia formal wear attire. It is based on the Menologion of Basil II. He is wearing a white turban and purple skaramangion (tunic with long sleeves) ornamented with white lions (levkoleontai).
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Sources
· Golden Byzantine Earrings, British Museum, 10~11th century
· Menologion Of Basil II, Vatican Library, c.979~1000
· MS Z454 (822), St.Marks Library, 11th century
· Vatican Psalter, Vatican Library, late 11th century
· Epithalamion in honor of Andronicos II, Vatican Library, late 13th century
· Raffaele D'Amato, Byzantine Imperial Guardsmen 925-1025: The Taghmata and Imperial Guard, 2012
· Timothy Dawson, By the Emperor's Hand: Military Dress and Court Regalia in the later Roman-Byzantine Empire, 2015
Comments
Anyknown
nicely done. I love noble style. especially an elegant and decadent theme.
