Decoding The Gurus
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Oldering (Chris’ Christmas Indulgence)
🕑 Added 2024-12-12 00:49:36 +0000 UTCTis the season for self indulgence and what better place to indulge yourself than on a Patreon?
Since you all are forced to hear periodic updates on middle aged bouldering in audio format, I thought it only fair to assault you with video evidence that this is not all in my mind.
The way it works, for those of you unfamiliar, is that you have starting holds (marked by colored tapes) and a finishing hold (marked by the same color tape). Your goal is to climb up using the holds indicated for that route. In the gyms I use in Japan these are mostly colour coded (e.g. you can use all the white holds). The routes themselves are graded by difficulty, usually indicated by the colour of the tape (not the colour of the holds).
In most countries they use a difficulty rating based on V1-15 but in Japan it follows a different system going from Q8-Q1 then 1st - 3rd Dan. This should be familiar to people who have trained Judo or Karate. I’m currently at around Q3 level, by Japan conversion I think this is V2-3 but Japan is a bit harsh in its grades. In any case, still a long way to go! I started in May this year so have been training for just over half a year now.
I find it a very enjoyable physical and mental workout (each route is like a puzzle) and it provides a break from rumination and stress. I’m 42 now and see lots of people in the gyms who are in their 60s, and some who might be older, who are climbing much better than me, so I feel like this is the kind of sport/activity that you can participate in long term. My kids also really enjoy it, so it’s a good family activity.
I realise this is an indulgent, off topic post but this is something I really enjoy and that I think contributes to the ‘balance’ necessary to not be worn down by all the guru stuff that we regularly dig into. It might not be to everyone’s tastes but it suits my personality very well and has replaced the ‘mental break’ space that martial art training used to occupy for me. I’d still like to train grappling but it’s a lot harder to schedule than bouldering and I have some niggling injuries i need to be careful of.
Anyway, the routes in the video are all from the past few months and are pretty representative of my current level. I’m happy with my progress but also realise I have a lot more to work on to get to 1Q! I know some of you here are a lot more experienced than me and no I’ve never tried top-rope or outdoor stuff. Maybe one day but for now I’m content on indoor stuff with nice soft mats!
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Comments
Christopher Kavanagh
I climb usually 2-4 a week at the minute but there is a gym five mins from my office
Aaron Holder
That was a lot of fun to watch. I miss climbing. You’re already better than I ever got. I climbed at a great gym in Sapporo, but that was nearly 14 years ago. No climbing gyms in remote Australia. 😢
Ludwig Schmidt
Ah man. This is so inspiring. If I pick up bouldering again I'm blaming you...
Josh Chang
Nice sends, since we're the same age how many times a week can you climb/recover? There isn't so much online for us older beginners
buildinginlawndale
Great suggestion. Controlled, slower movements including placing feet silently is a great way to build control and placement accuracy.
buildinginlawndale
Congrats on picking and sticking with the best form of exercise. Looks like you're coming right along. Even a little campus start in there! I was a climber for over 20 years (an instructor most of that) until my shoulders decided to go into rebellion and tell me it was time for me to quit. God I miss it. Still get out climbing moderately with the kids a couple times a year. Hopefully it'll be something you can share with yours.
Bernt Goodson
Yep pretty much the same idea it sounds like. It is very meditative. Since I stopped climbing, I haven't found an activity that achieves the same state of flow. I think a lot of it though is just having the time to devote to a hobby like that
Neil DH
I found that Bjj = chess + climbing Between the two of them, you can scratch the same itch.
Leslie
Impressive!
Anjan Sarkar
Impressive ! You almost had him in an arm bar early on, but he slithered out.
Christopher Kavanagh
Back in the day… https://youtu.be/yOeGWJ0mZKI?si=TlL-SkWEXLHGyIXw
Anjan Sarkar
Now we need to see Chris do some bjj grappling with Lex "big love" Friedman, Andrew "snake oil" Huberman or Joe "baldy twat" Rogan !
August
Also, good form Chris though I'm sure you know you don't need to readjust as much as you do ;) Then again, the same goes for most of us me included. Im always convinced Ill have a better grip after 4 or so shakes 😂
Christopher Kavanagh
Wouldn't be bad to catch up with Stephan. We have been on his podcast before and had a chat with Phrost back in the day!
Christopher Kavanagh
That's amazing! I watched some coaching video on Twitter and it recommended moving in slow motion almost on very basic routes to become more aware of placement and pulling/pushing/pressure. It works great and is also quite meditative!
August
Man the walls are chaotic in there. Looks fun but very different from what we have here in most gyms. American routesetters seem to take themselves a bit seriously and consider it an "art" or something. Like, the aesthetics of the route and wall are important to many of them that Ive talked to, is what I mean. I like the variety here, I say pack it in
Bernt Goodson
That looks like a fun gym. Makes me miss the sport. And looks like your form is getting a lot better from prior twitter videos. It is fun when start understanding all the techniques. I think good foot work is one of the hardest things to develop early on. In college we use to put bells on feet and try to control our foot speed so the bell wouldn't ring. It was exaggerated but it drove home the point. I think one of the more helpful drills for me though was doing a ton of down climbing. It forces you to look at your feet more than your hands. Traversing too is great for learning how to position your body effectively on the wall.
Ryan
Chris you can climb multiple days in a row. You just need to drink more beer.
DJM
A lovely post, Chris. Will there be any future posts on how/why the grappling/mma/BJJ space got so guru-ish/red-pilled? I think there’s some interesting history with the Gracie’s in Brazil and such, but I suspect it’s more a a conspirituality type of phenomenon. Maybe have Stephan Kesting on? Also, any tips on avoiding tendinitis when switching to bouldering?
Christopher Kavanagh
Quite a bit to go before I’m at Olympic standard 😉
Neil vdp
😂 after just seeing olympics mainly, I have to say, the holds look VERY generous. You’re in some kind of hold heaven! But seriously, what a great activity to get into! I was surprised to see how hi you’re allowed to go without a harness!! Do we allow that height in Australia? I hope so.
Christopher Kavanagh
Yes!
Frank Lantz
Beast.
Scott Grande
Gravity Vault in Middletown is my local but sometimes Flemington. You?
Kyle H
Where do you go in NJ?
Julie
Oldering looks very difficult
Par
Unironically you should re-shoot the video with a tighter shirt to show off those guns, or just go with a tank top. Then, film a couple of grappling sessions. Add some Alan Watts narration or Marcus Aurelius quotes. Top it off with a couple anecdotes about your research into hallucinogen’s and ascetic cultures… Pin to twitter and you’ll be on Joe Rogan’s podcast within a month! That’s the blueprint for earning street cred in the brosphere 📈 😆
Dada de Broglie
I love the title but let’s see this modern beard you’ve been bragging about! 🧔🏻
Kyle H
Looking pretty strong, Chris! Does Japan have a cool climbing sub-culture? A stereotype I have of Japan — they love sub-cultures.
Jen
Thanks for sharing! I need to start something and this is very inspiring. 👍🏼
Adalheidur
You know that one cult leader who used to be a ballet dancer and made ballet a huge part of his cult? You could do that but for bouldering
Iwan Williams
Nice - bouldering gang let's gooo! Also have you ever noticed that bouldering as a hobby is overrepresented among academics? My theory is that it's something to do with the appeal of problem solving, and the fact that it can be done solo (read: by introverts)
Chrizzy
No bloopers? 😕
John S Durst
Nice, genuinely knew absolutely nothing about this beyond 'climbing of some kind'. Sadly, as someone with acrophobia and vertigo not for me, but looks fun!
PuffyLowe
Strong work! If you ever find yourself in the dystopian nightmare that is California 😜. Could point you in the direction of world class bouldering In the Tahoe area.
Lillie
That core ‘tho 🤩 & look at those guns, you know we love this content
Roland Weber
Thanks, that was interesting and fun to watch! A local movie theatre will be showing Stallone's "Cliffhanger" next year... now I'm in the mood for that. 🪨😄🧗
Don Schaffner
As a 60 something myself I know this is something I will *never* do, and probably never could even when younger. That said I get a great deal of enjoyment from your adventures :) Thanks for sharing with us.
Emma
What a great idea. I'm gunna copy you.
Níall Faughnan
Wow this looks way better than I imagined. Thanks for sharing
Idan Ca
Indulgence = Approved!
Daniel
Nice work, have you tried B-PUMP Akihabara, with its open air roof? Loved that gym when I visited Tokyo last year
Password1234!
Fine, you've convinced me. Time to get my old shoes out and build back those calluses.
Ed Smith
Come to BC and I’ll take you on some multipitch trad 🫡
Rob W
Nice work - this is all at famously difficult Japanese gyms right?! If you ever decide to visit New Zealand reach out and I'll show you Castle Hill - truly world class bouldering.
Kimberly Beer
I watched this while eating ice cream :) well done!
Milquetoast Ramen
It comes down to your tolerance for risk of re-injury or exacerbating an ongoing issue. Some continue the sport for years and years with these injuries and just accept the chronic pain as the cost of what’s a net positive in their life, but that seems a little myopic to me given most quit BJJ sooner or later for logistical reasons if not due to the injuries and wear and tear on the body. That said, it was a lot of fun and quite addicting! But bouldering will for sure better preserve your knees!
Ryan Booker
I’m here for the soundtrack.
Christopher Kavanagh
Nobody would care but maybe hard for getting grip.
Nancy Hale
Question: (for Chris and other boulderers): What’s the attitude (or rules) toward wearing gloves at these gyms?
Christopher Kavanagh
Good copypasta!
Nancy Hale
Fascinating work, good on you, Chris! It’s especially inspiring that 60+ aged folks are kicking butt in your gym.
Scott Grande
Good stuff, Chris! Great looking boulders there. If you ever happen to be in the NJ area, we can get a session in.
Linda Sears
Well done! It looks like it requires a good mix of flexibility and strength. I’d like to give it a try.
Par
“Awesome vid. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.” 🙃
Brian Hurst
Well played.
Jamison Shipley
im 42 too! Went to a local gym with my son and I was amazed at the spidermen scaling the walls. it's harder than it looks.
Jean-François Melançon
This look fun! I used to climb and boulder often, and looking this made me feel like doing it again this winter. Three years ago I went to Peña de Bernal with a couple of friends in Mexico. I heard it's the 3rd biggest monolith in the world. The climb took a whole day at a relaxed pace, and even if it's really high and steep, it was probably easier than what you do here. Good memories...
Christopher Kavanagh
Knee injury! Partial Meniscectomy with microfracturing!
Christopher Kavanagh
Depends on the gym. Sometimes they have just badges or stickers to mark the holds. Also on certain routes there are shared volumes, usually marked by a small hold of the relevant colour being present. It varies by gym.
Milquetoast Ramen
Looks like a great bouldering gym here! It's definitely a much kinder sport on the body, speaking as someone who started with climbing, turned to grappling, then got injured and returned to climbing. But depends on what sort of niggling injuries we're talking about. Anything neck-related like me and I'd tread lightly
Christopher Kavanagh
Let’s Go 😉
Casey Marshall
Think you are supposed to stay in the same color no?
Eric Carlsen
I've been top roping for a while. I'm 47 and injuries are just such an issue, bouldering is especially hard on my body. But I'm glad it's working for you!
Yokey Doke
Get ‘em Kav! About to hit my local gym right now in Melbourne🧗🏼
